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Monday, June 28

THE WHITE THAT MIGHT...
by
Brazenly Lucid
on Mon 28 Jun 2010 11:03 PM PDT
THE RISE OF SAUVIGNON BLANC
This may be somewhat premature but hell, that has never stopped me before. I see something on the wine horizon that is very encouraging; sauvignon blanc sales are experiencing a steady increase over the past year. This is hardly scientific since I am basing my conclusions on what I see in the store that I work in. However, this has always been a reliable barometer for me and I do not see why it should let me down now. This past Fall, Winter and Spring, sauvignon blanc sales were out of this world in a time when they tend to come to a standstill. At first I thought it was an anomaly until I heard a respected wine critic I was watching make a passing comment on the rise in sales of the aforementioned varietal.
For me, this is a breath of fresh air. I have long been discouraged over the tenacious hold pinot grigio has had in the white wine category. It started with the rise in popularity of Italian pinot grigio and eventually bled over into the domestic side. For the past four years I have had difficulty keeping up with the demand. At first, it was a good thing. Chardonnay had lost some of it’s thunder and folks were looking elsewhere to quench their thirst for white wine. I would never discourage anyone from expanding their palate horizons. The problem however lies in the fact that most pinot grigio is one-dimensional and quite boring in many ways. People started feeling comfortable with this wine knowing that they would not have to think about what they are drinking. Just take it home and glug, glug, glug. Pinot grigio is in my estimation the McDonalds of white wine; you always know what you are going to get. Far be it from me to criticize, since on many occasions I have succumbed to the craving for several McDonald’s cheeseburgers in one sitting. I too enjoy a bottle of pinot grigio from time to time. However, to stick to pinot grigio because it is safe and you do not have to think about is a tragedy! Wine is all about experimentation, adventure and diversity. If you lose that, then you have lost a part of the wine world that is so much fun and so interesting. The amount of varietals that are available on the market these days is almost incomprehensible. Here are just a few of the white wines that you should be able to find in your local wine shop.
Torrontes from Argentina, semillon, riesling, chardonnay, pinot gris (same as pinot grigio, but an entirely different style), pinot blanc, aligote, Muscadet, marsanne, roussannse, viognier, gruner veltliner, chenin blanc (Vouvray in France), albarino, gewruztraminer, verdelho, verdicchio and of course sauvignon blanc. There are of course many others, but they are not as accessible. You may be asking yourself at this time..." Why is Stan excited about sauvignon blanc? Isn’t it just as one dimensional as pinot grigio?" I think this is a fair question and one that should be addressed. The answer is no and yes. I say yes simply because there are so many poorly made domestic sauvignon blancs on the market. Case in point; I was told by a salesperson that Woodward Canyon sauvignon blanc was absolutely delicious. I took him on his word and took into account the reputation of the winery. The wine went for thirty dollars retail so I was really looking forward to giving it a try. Much to my dismay, the wine was bland and uninteresting... very one dimensional. In the same sitting, I had tried a sauvignon blanc from the Languedoc region of France, an area not know for it’s sauvignon blanc. I was quite impressed with this effort, and went back to it after the Woodward Canyon disaster. What is my point? If you want to find out just how complex and amazing sauvignon blanc can be, you in most cases need to look outside the United States. Before I go on any further, it has to be said that there are some outstanding examples of this variety in this country. I recently tasted a stellar, vibrant example of what can be done with this wine from a small winery located near Bellingham, WA. However, the majority of outstanding examples still come from France, New Zealand and now Chile.
New Zealand sauvignon blanc can send you to the moon and back when done at it’s best. I personally do not prefer the grapefruit juice versions of these wines. I swear that if you put a little milk in a glass of some of the sauvignon blanc out of this country you would have a hard time telling the difference between the wine and a glass of grapefruit juice except for the buzz in your head after a glass or two. I can certainly understand the appeal and will be happy to lead you to a bottle of Kim Crawford. I personally enjoy the versions from this country that offer up a load of zingy acridity along with grass, lemon, lime, minerality and only slight hints of grapefruit. Hard to beat a glass of this on a warm summer day out on the back porch or deck. Then there is the sauvignon blanc from Sancerre, France. If we could only get the price down then I would be in heaven. Shining examples of what can be done with this grape. Racy acidity that makes my mouth water just thinking about it. Excellent minerality along with notes of fresh cut grass, wet stone, and in most cases hints of lemon. I believe that some of the best wine for oysters is Sancerre. France also shows off sauvignon blanc out of Bordeaux. Often blended with semillon it is some of the most interesting whites that you will find on the market. A little rounder with excellent minerality along with herbal notes. I am excited to see a rise in interest for white Bordeaux. Chile is also making a mark in the sauvignon blanc world and at excellent prices. If you are looking for delicious values in sauvignon blanc look no further then our friends from South America.
Yes, sauvignon blanc like any other varietal can be boring and humdrum when made poorly. However, done well it can be exciting to the palate and quite versatile. So watch out pinot grigio, the white that might knock you out of your comfortable position in the white wine category could very well be sauvignon blanc! Here’s to keeping it real. Stan The Wine Man.
Monday, April 5

SYRAH OR NOT TO SYRAH? THAT IS THE QUESTION....
by
Brazenly Lucid
on Mon 05 Apr 2010 02:24 PM PDT
Syrah is seeming to suffer a little bit of a let down in interest by the consumer these days. At first I thought it was just a local thing at the store. Then I read an article on the new Stephen Tanzer web-site that addressed the very issue of declining Syrah sales in the United States. I am saddened to see this happening for a number of reasons, the main one being that syrah is an awesome varietal and has so much potential. It shows it best expression in the Rhone valley, in particular northern Rhone with Hermitage, Cote-Rotie, Cornas and Saint-Joseph the reds made exclusively with the syrah grape. The other region where it shows its outstanding nature and qualities is in Washington State. In fact you could say for the sake of argument that it is in it’s infancy stage in Washington. We have yet to see what it is able to do in this state which is on the same latitude as the Rhone Valley. There are a number of schools out on why the decline in syrah sales. I can appreciate why northern Rhone wines may be suffering a decline considering the condition of the worldwide economy. Many of the reds from the northern Rhone go for a substantial amount of money. It is hard to find a Hermitage for under forty bucks. Also, you’re average consumer does not realize that these wines are 100% syrah, which is always a problem with french wines. Ask a room of four hundred people who are wine drinkers which grape or grapes are used in Hermitage, Cote-Rotie or Saint-Joseph and I think you would not be shocked if only five or so knew the answer. That is just the way it is with wines that do not have the varietal name on the label. Who wants to take the time to find that stuff out? Only wine geeks like myself. (Please do not feel sorry for me.... It’s an incurable disease)
The price point is not the issue with Washington or even California syrah. You can get some pretty good stuff for under thirty or even twenty bucks. I recently had great success with Cline California syrah at the store which retailed for around ten bucks. Not only was the price good, it was a decent if not good wine with soft tannins, boysenberry and plum notes with a silky smooth finish. Price point is always a driving force for wine sales and syrah many times, especially domestic boasts a really good value. So why the decline in interest for this varietal.
Stephen Tanzers web-site took a stab at it pointing out that many consumers are unsure about syrah. When they get a chance to taste it they love it, when it comes time to purchase a bottle they go to old familiar varietals such as merlot, cabernet sauvignon or pinot noir. Because I love syrah so much, it is hard for me to understand this reticence to experiment with different styles of this wine. I think this is a good point. Many consumers have trouble stretching their horizons when it comes to wine, especially if you are investing more then twenty bucks. I also think a contributing factor is the way in which the wine guys like myself describe syrah. People have a hard time wrapping their mind around such descriptors as bacon fat, smokey and silky viscosity. I have had several conversations with customers who are thrown off by these terms. I try to help them understand the concept of bacon fat and succeed from time to time. Other times I see the decision switch go to off and no matter what I say they walk away from a syrah purchase. Can we sugar coat a descriptor to help the consumer make a decision. The answer to that is yes, if we as wine stewards are not interested in educating our customers. I only avoid the smoke and bacon fat adjectives if it is not in the wine. I want my customer to understand those terms and come to grips with them so that when they see it in the future they will know what they are in for. This not only educates the consumer, it helps in long term wine sales.
The other explanation to declining syrah sales and one that I believe is the real reason is Australian shiraz, especially the Yellow Tail and Lindeman’s version of this wine. I would be willing to wager money that it took wine stewards like myself a good five plus years to convince consumers that syrah and shiraz were the same grape. We finally succeeded and at the same time, folks were getting tired of the coca cola fruit forward style of Australian shiraz. This of course crossed over into domestic and french syrah sales. Now, we have our work cut out for us. How do we go about explaining to our customer that although shiraz and syrah are the same grape, they are produced in a very different style in France and the U.S. Australian wine sales have gone in the tank and I believe this is because they have pigeon-holed themselves into the cheap shiraz category and the consumer is tired of this. At the same time it has taken a few victims with it, in particular domestic syrah sales. This my friends is a sad consequence and one that needs to be changed. Syrah has to be one of the most versatile food wines you can find. A great match with a number of foods such as ham, grilled beef, casseroles, stews, lamb, and duck. Also, a great solo wine. Unlike the Australian version, Washington and California syrah can go from soft and fruity to earthy and intense with good acidity and fruit balance. I have yet to find a domestic syrah that even comes close to the Australian cheap shiraz version. To digress for just a moment, I have nothing against Yellow Tail or Lindemans or Jacobs Creek shiraz. They are great cross-over wines. A great way to get white wine drinkers to break into reds. It’s soft fruity and easy to drink. Heck, I even find myself craving a tootie fruity Australian shiraz from time to time. That being said, I do not see a quick return by the consumer to this style of wine in a big way any time soon.
I am committed to helping the consumer realize the quality and versatility of domestic syrah, in particular Washington syrah. I am dedicating the month of May to syrah. I will recommend it, drink it and do my best to feature and sell it at my store. I will tweet about it and make it a subject for my wine group on facebook. All I ask is for your cooperation in this effort. Make it a point to educate your palate. Try a different syrah at least a couple of times a month. I know you will find that you have been missing out on a great wine. I also know that there are many of you out there that already love syrah. Spread the word, and help me get syrah sales headed in the right direction. Here’s to keeping it real. Stan The Wine Man.
Saturday, April 3

IS WINE SUFFERING FROM GLOBALIZATION?
by
Brazenly Lucid
on Sat 03 Apr 2010 05:49 PM PDT
A lot of us could give a flying rat’s (you know what) about the globalization of wine. Many of us probably have never even taken the time to understand what that term means although if given just a little thought it wouldn’t take any of us long to figure it out. Robert Parker Jr. has been accused of being a major contributor to it along with the sharing of wine techniques all over the globe and the onslaught of globe- trotting wine makers and consultants such as Michel Rolland and Richard Smart. There have been many an article written about the fear that wine is becoming homogenous worldwide. The wine you get in France is the same as the wine you get in California, Washington, Italy, Spain, etc. etc. You get the picture. Many feel that because Parker has become so powerful and his scores have such a great influence on the sales of wine, that wineries around the world build their wines to fit his palate. The other angle is that the globetrotting wine consultants such as Rolland bring their techniques to so many wineries that in essence they all have the same concept on how to make wine and the same style. This all makes for interesting prose but is it true or just interesting debate? Are we so gullible as consumers that we will allow someone else to tell us what we should or should not like when it comes to wine? It would be foolish to deny the influence that Parker has. Many folks although fewer now then ten years ago look to his scores as a tried and true guideline to purchasing wine. If the Wine Advocate gives a wine the score of 94 points it is more then likely going to be very good. I am not sure if anyone cares that Michel Rolland was a consultant at a winery or not and if they could even identify his style. I do know that he was the winemaker for a merlot known as Pedestal which is part of the Long Shadows Winery headed up by Allen Shoup. To be blunt, I hated this wine and thought it was severely over-priced. Again, it would be ignorant of me to say that he has no impact on the wine world. Wineries all over the globe pay him big bucks for his direction and advice including the famous winery Screaming Eagle. He has the creds as we may say. But I am looking at things from a consumers standpoint.
To put this in the perspective of where I am coming from, let’s take macaroni and cheese as an example. In an upcoming tasting event I am going to have a line-up of best wines with mac & cheese. I will have a mac & cheese cook-off. Now most of us might think that you cannot do much with a mac & cheese recipe. Most of them have been shared around the world and most of them must taste fairly close to the same. Try to say that to someone and you will find yourself in the midst of a heated debate! Everyone has their favorite recipe and certainly theirs must be the best. You should hear some of the recipes that have been shared with me. I did not know there could be such a wide variety of ideas for such an age-old dish. The same is true of wine. No matter how hard someone may try to make a wine a certain way, there are a zillion folks out there who like it better another way. We cannot get around individuality. For every Robert Parker Jr. there is a Peter Parker or a Sally Jones. To say that every Cabernet Sauvignon is the same in France, Washington, California, Argentina and Australia as far as style and flavor profile goes is to say that every mac & cheese recipe is essentially the same in flavor profile and style in every household. Ridiculous. I agree. It does have to be said that we have gone through a period of time in which big bombastic, fruit forward reds were quite popular. Just as big buttery, oaky chardonnay were popular in the nineties. But like everything in wine, times are changing and folks are branching out in their knowledge of wines and their palates. Thanks to the plethora of blogs and the new wine critics of wine critics out there people are being exposed to new ideas and approaches to wine. The big fruit forward, high alcohol wines that Parker likes are no longer as popular with the consumer. I have found that many folks yearn for the earthy style reds of Rioja and some of the smaller producers of Bordeaux. Cabernet Franc which is known for it’s leaner style and herbaciousness is suddenly becoming one of the more sought after varietals. Will wine swing back to the style of the eighties for reds and the nineties for chardonnay? Time will tell. What has become obvious is that critics like Robert Parker Jr. are losing their grip on the consumer. As information comes to light about Parker and his associates practices, how his scores are jaded by his palate and what he likes, the consumer becomes wary of his direction. I personally have deep respect for what Parker has done and what he knows. The man has earned his stripes. But I do not believe that he is the definitive authority on what we should or should not like about wine. He is entitled to his opinion just as you are entitled to yours.
The wine world will always be interesting and varied. To say that wine will become homogenous because of globalization is like saying someday everyone on the earth is going to love broccoli because a famous author endorses it as the ultimate cure for mankind. I am sorry to inform you that people in general are not that easy to influence. Jesus Christ, one of the most influential humans in history could not turn everyone over to Christianity. The globalization of wine is a fun topic to discuss over a fine bottle of wine, but I am not sure if you should take it all that seriously. Never forget the power of the consumer to change things.. including trends in wine, the future of a critic or how winemakers approach their craft. I am excited to see so many individuals stretching their horizons in wine knowledge and understanding. Educating their palates to enjoy a variety of wines and appreciating their intrinsic qualities. I see folks going back to chardonnay after a decade of turning their backs on it. I see a great interest in varietals that were not abundantly available even five years ago. Mouvedre, Vermentino, Ugni Blanc, Grenache, Cab Franc, Gruner Veltliner, Counoise and many others. Rose has become more and more popular in the States as consumers educate their palate to enjoy this fine dry pink wine that is not white zindandel. We are almost past the ripe wine stage and on to other things. The only thing global about wine these days is the populations appreciation for wine and the wonderful world it opens up.
Tuesday, February 23

IS WINE TRENDY?
by
Brazenly Lucid
on Tue 23 Feb 2010 09:45 PM PST
I believe without a shadow of a doubt that wine is as trendy as music, clothing and the teenage vernacular. What is in today is out tomorrow. Like many teenagers say, "Oh that is so last year." I’m sorry to say, even that saying may be outdated. The trends in wine can have a positive side but more often then not tend to lead wine drinkers into a steady diet of the same wines over and over again. Being the wine nerd that I am, I find great satisfaction in trying new and interesting wines on a weekly basis. I rarely if ever avoid buying a wine because it has received a bum rap from HOLLYWOOD or some fashionable magazine. I think you may know where I am going with this, but I will say it anyway... Merlot is the classic example. The movie Sideways hit the big screen and as many of you know, there was a derogatory statement made about Merlot. No big deal? That one scene in the movie caused sales of merlot to spiral into near non-existence. Thus began a trend that is still nagging the wine industry to this day. What is funny about this is that prior to the movie, merlot was a hot ticket and consumers could not get enough. How can a wine be so enjoyable one day and disdained the next? Trends! The same movie extolled the virtues of a wine that up to this point had achieved little success in the mass market.... pinot noir. After the movie there was an explosion (literally) in the sales of pinot noir throughout the United States. Wineries in Oregon that once sat on two to three years of vintages were now finding themselves out of wine. This is the positive side of a trend. Pinot noir is wonderful juice and was certainly under appreciated prior to the SideWays movie. Now, everyone seems to want to drink pinot and they have discovered just how delicious and complex it is. This trend has opened the eyes of many wine drinkers and has helped them expand their horizons when it comes to trying new wines. The flip side to this is that many have also stopped there, believing that pinot noir is the only red wine worth drinking. You may ask yourself , how do I know this? Being on the floor selling wine in a very popular wine shop has given me a lot of insight into the buying habits and opinions of my customers.
Here a just a few of the trends that I have observed in the wine world today.
*Chardonnay is still on most peoples black list. I love chardonnay and I am happy to report that there seems to be hope on the horizon that chardonnay is making a comeback.
*Pinot grigio and pinot gris are still a hot ticket in the wine world. This trend has had unbelievable stamina lasting a lot longer then I would have ever anticipated. I have asked many folks their take on this trend and have found no satisfying answers. Perhaps it is the versatility this white has with food that makes it a popular choice, who knows. All I can say is... For heaven’s sake, TRY SOMETHING NEW!! Vermentino anyone?
*Malbec, malbec, and more malbec! OMG people are clamoring for this stuff. This has to be one of the hottest categories in wine right now. The price is right and the quality of juice coming out of Argentina is stellar. The only thing I fear is that Argentina will pigeonhole themselves into this category and when it becomes stale or out of fashion they will suffer the same fate that Australia is now experiencing with shiraz.
*Speaking of Shiraz, it was four years ago what malbec is today. Not anymore. I have seen close to a sixty percent drop in sales of shiraz from Australia. Unfortunately, this has affected the entire Australian market since they hung their hat on this varietal. Australia is the home of some outstanding wines including cabernet sauvignon, sauvignon blanc and riesling. Sad to say but Australia has become synonymous with YellowTail shiraz and chardonnay. A residual effect of this is a drop in the sales of domestic syrah. As wine stewards, we have successfully done our job in helping people understand that shiraz and syrah are one and the same. As a result, folks have turned their attention elsewhere and away from syrah/shiraz. This trend is most disturbing to me since I adore syrah especially from Washington State and hate to see folks miss out on some of the terrific wines being produced there.
*The trend that I absolutely love to see and hope sticks around longer then pinot grigio ever will is the interest in red blends. The French have been blending reds since the beginning of time. Bordeaux is in fact all about blending the five grapes of Bordeaux into some of the best wine in the world. Cab, Merlot, Cab Franc, Malbec and petite Verdot are all the varieties grown in this region and blended together to produce Bordeaux reds. However, the blends that are exploding in popularity in the wine world are from California and Washington. Many times we refer to these blends as "Kitchen Sink" reds, because they throw every variety in the blend except the kitchen sink. Zinfandel, Syrah, Petite Verdot, Petite Sirah, Merlot, Mouvedre, Cabernet Sauvignon and the list goes on and on. The result is an outstanding variety of great values that go from excellent everyday reds to stellar productions that can be drunk now or cellared for some years. Marietta Old Vine Red, Menage a Trois, Big House Red, Fly-Over Red, Duck Pond Red, Sinister Hand, Abott’s Table Red, Isosceles, Napa Nook, Paraduxx, Long Haul Red, The Prisoner to name just a few, are some of the examples of red blends that have hit the market with great success. I have a good feeling about this trend.... It will be here for awhile.
I believe that there are also constants in the wine world; varietals that will always hold their own despite the trends. Cabernet Sauvignon, Italian wines as a whole, Spanish wines, and Champagne or sparkling wine. These wines show consistent sales year in and year out. Some varietals that have shown promise to be on the trend wagon in the near future are Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc. Cab Franc sputters and coughs, and I am not sure if it will take off although I would readily endorse it. I have watched Sauvignon Blanc start to catch on fire and I believe that New Zealand has a lot to do with it. I will keep you posted.
As a wine guy, I am always happy to see folks try something new and if it takes a trend to get them there... Hooray! However, we must always be careful not to let trends hinder or adventuresome spirit when it comes to expanding our horizons in the wine world and all it has to offer. Cheers! Stan
Thursday, December 3

THE 100 POINT SCORING SYSTEM.... IS IT A GOOD THING?
by
Brazenly Lucid
on Thu 03 Dec 2009 09:29 AM PST
It never ceases to amaze me that the debate about the "100" point scoring system goes on and on. Maybe wine guys have nothing better to do then pick on something that has been established in our society for some time. Maybe it’s plain old envy. Robert Parker Jr. made this whole scoring thing quite popular, and perhaps folks are simply jealous of his success and find fault in something that he has done. I am not sure of the motive behind the arguments.
It brings to mind an old saying... "When in Rome, do as the Romans do." I have seen many different types of scoring systems, the five glass scoring system, the 2o point system, (twenty points being the best score a wine can attain.) The three to five grape clusters, the four star system, etc. etc. I have also observed that some wine critics simply try to relay how they feel about a wine through their descriptions. If through a wine description it is obvious that the wine critic is not thrilled about the wine, you might think twice about buying it. How much easier is it to look at the score first, and if it is a mid to low eighty score perhaps you decide not to read the description knowing that you do not need to waste your time? I personally go for the second option because, let’s face it; time is valuable and like most people, I do not have time to waste. The sidebar to that last statement is that you better know the wine critics palate. This is the real key. Not all wine critics share our view on wine. It takes some time, but as we experiment with the scores that they give a wine compared to how we personally feel about it we will be able to navigate through their scores.
Here is an example of what I am talking about... James Laube, a wine critic for the Wine Spectator is one that has a very similar palate to my own. When he scores a wine 90+ it gets my attention. Nine times out of ten the wine that he likes, I like. It took me some time to figure that out but now it is easy for me to make a decision based on his judgement. On the other hand, there is Harvey Steiman, the Pacific Northwest, Australian and New Zealand critic for the same publication. When Harvey gives a wine a high score, I become doubtful. My palate and Harvey’s do not agree. Again, it took me a couple of times to figure this out. In both cases, their score on the 100 point scale helps me to make a decision on whether or not I want to give the wine a whirl. If James Laube rates it high I will probably give it a try. If Harvey gives it a high score I will be less likely to give it a try and look for other critics for some direction.
One of my favorite wine critics is Stephen Tanzer, of International Wine Cellar. Stephen is quite conservative and very objective. When he gives a wine a score in the nineties, it is almost guaranteed to be a stellar wine for me. He seems to score lower then I would on a wine. So, the point is that you find a wine guy or two that you like and can trust, and you look at the 100 point scale as a short-cut to making a decision. James Laube finds a wine and scores it 89 to 94 points I’ll give it a try. Stephen Tanzer gives a score of 86 to 90 points I’ll look for that wine. I just do not waste my time with Harvey Steiman, not because he doesn’t know anything, I just do not agree with his palate. Because I am a critic myself, I do like to read the descriptions that the other critics give the wine. Harvey Steiman does an excellent job of describing wine and I get a lot of good ideas from him. He has a knack for finding the right phrases and is quite eloquent. Another guy that is great with descriptions and telling you what he finds in a wine is Gary Vaynerchuk. I have to say that he is one of the most enjoyable guys to listen to. I would suggest that you look him up on www.winelibrarytv.com. A couple of years ago a friend of mine told me about this guy. Gary has a very similar approach to wine as I do and it is refreshing to hear someone with the same point of view. He uses the 100 point system and seems to wrestle with the concept. Who cares if he scores a wine 92 or simply says it is a really good wine. They both mean the same thing. Sometimes he gets a little carried away with the low scores and it is at this point that I will try a wine to see if it is really that bad. I have found that I do not always agree with his assessment on the low side of the scale. It did not take me all that long to figure this out and now I can dissect his scoring analysis with ease.
The 100 point system is just an easy way to get a bead on the psyche of a wine critic. It does not define a wine. How can it? If Robert Parker Jr. gives a wine 94 points, what does that tell me? That Robert Parker Jr. really likes that particular wine...not that it is really a 94 point wine in and of itself. What if Stephen Tanzer gives the same wine a score of 86. Who is right? Neither critic. They are both simply telling us how they personally feel about a wine and we have to decide which palate we prefer. Do we agree more with Parker’s palate or with Tanzer’s? We might try the wine and simply hate it, disagreeing with both critics. Great! Good for you! You have now come into your own. The sad story in this is when someone sees a high score by a respected critic, goes out and buys the wine, opens it with some friends and chokes it down hating every minute, and at the same time gushing about the wine simply because they feel like they have to like it because the critic did. How crazy is that? Yet, I have seen this happen over and over again. Please, I beg you... never let that happen to you. Go with your palate, scream it out at the top of your lungs if you disagree with a critic. Forget about Parker, Stan, Gary or Tanzer... it is all about you. The score simply helps you cut to the chase once you understand what you are looking for.
Robert Parker Jr. likes wines that are extracted and concentrated. Big, bold wines that smack you in the face. He has been criticized for his influence on the wine world to go in this direction. Here is a guy that started off thirty years ago with a small newsletter, very little education in wine and a purpose... to be a consumer advocate. Look at where it has gotten him. One of the most powerful individuals in winedom. Do I respect him? Absolutely. Do I agree with him? Not always. If I am in the mood for a big, concentrated wine then I look to Parker. If I am in a mood for a wine with some earthiness, acidity and a little funky, I look to Vaynerchuk. In most cases I simply try thousands of wines and come to my own conclusion and pass it along to my readers. I use the 100 point scale and feel good about it. I have had people disagree with me and I love it. I am glad that they feel comfortable enough with me to know that I simply am using the scoring system as a guide to help them see how I personally feel about a wine... not that my score should be placed on a mantle and worshiped. Most critics just want to help. We like to see individuals get the wine that will be the icing on the cake, the great value, a wine that they will feel good about.
I believe that there are a few critics out there who have let their success go to there head... that they are bigger then wine itself. If they give a wine a big score then we better all stand up and listen!! Sorry, I refuse to go down that road. Wine critics do not define a wine by a score. The wine defines the wine critic by the score he gives it. (I hope that makes sense to you). Wine writers and critics expose their palate by both their descriptions and scores. I am confident to say that most of my readers and friends know what kind of wine I like and they know what to expect when I give a wine a big score. If they haven’t reached that level yet, I want them to get there. On the other hand, it is my responsibility as a wine steward to make sure I understand the palate of my customers so that I can recommend a wine that will suit them. Customers are wine critics too and I must understand where they are coming from.
The debate about scoring wine will rage on, no matter what I write. I only hope to help you understand what is really behind a score. The 100 point scale gives us a broader spectrum of a critics palate, unlike a four star, three glass or five grape cluster scoring system can do. 74 points tells us he or she really does not like it. 98 points tells us that he or she is really in love with this wine. So in short, figure out what the critics like or dislike compared to your palate. Look at their score based on your understanding, and this will help you make an informed decision. Also, make sure you find a critic who scores all wines, good and bad. This is very helpful when trying to understand where their palate is. It seems to be a trend for some wine writers to score or write only about wines that they like, not about wines they don’t. I do not like this trend and this will be the subject of my next article in "Stan Uncorked", I hope you check it out. Let’s give a toast to keeping it real and taking the "Snob" out of wine. Stan
Friday, September 25

HOW CRITICAL SHOULD WINE CRITICS BE?
by
Brazenly Lucid
on Fri 25 Sep 2009 10:03 PM PDT
This question has crossed my mind many times over the last few months. What prompted it was a discussion I had with a good friend of mine who owns a winery and has a heavy hand in the wine making process. He made a trip over to Eastern Washington to drop some wine off at an account and to make a couple of stops at key restaurants and wine shops to leave samples. He was going to be over there for a couple of days, so he dropped some samples at a hotel/restaurant and told the wine buyer that he would be back the following day to see what he thought of the wines. He had success at this establishment before and was quite certain the gentleman would like the wines he had left. The next day, later in the afternoon he went back to the hotel/restaurant and asked if the gentleman had tried any of the samples. “I did.” He said “And nothing seemed to stand out at all.” Infuriated, the winery owner/winemaker said “What do you mean nothing stood out? What kind of assessment is that?” The wine buyer looked surprised and told him that it wasn’t personal and there was no need to get angry. My friend responded by saying “It is very personal. I put my heart, soul, energy and sweat into every bottle of wine that comes out of my winery, it does not get any more personal then that!” He turned around and walked out of the establishment determined never to waste another sample there again. My friend told me all of this with a grin since it had happened a few weeks prior. But I could tell by the tone of the story that this was a personal issue and it did raise his blood pressure at the time. It got me to thinking... When we as wine critics, wine buyers, or sommelier’s critique a wine, are we taking into consideration the heart and soul that went into that bottle? Granted, there are many volume wine producers out there who are pumping out billions of gallons of wine with no heart and soul. Fred Franzia has made millions of dollars providing wines to the public that are fair too mediocre at best. Heck, Fred even gets lucky at times and hits a home run~. However, this is not the segment of the wine world I am referring to. Like my aforementioned friend, I am reflecting on those wineries who have wine makers that have a hands-on approach to each barrel that comes through the winery. This includes at least (And this could be a low-ball estimate) 70% of the wines we see in stores and more then likely 95% of the wines we see on restaurant lists. Each of these winemakers puts a piece of their soul into each bottle of wine and we as critics need to take this into consideration each time we tip the glass and make a fair assessment of the wine. How much is a piece of someone’s soul worth? I believe one of the best ways to illustrate this would be a teacher in school. How many times does a teacher take into consideration effort when grading a paper, project or physical effort. Sure, the essay may not have been perfect, or the young man may have only done half the pushups that the star student did. Maybe the artwork had quite a few flaws in it. However, when the student puts their heart and soul into the effort, they gave it all they had.... that teacher if they are worth their weight will take that into consideration and give the student a grade that reflects the effort made. Have we as wine critics gotten to the point where we forgot about the effort? How many of us have been part of the wine making process? Do we know what it takes to produce the finished product? Since we are deeply involved in the wine business, the nuts and bolts of it all, we do have some idea of what it takes. But have we really walked a mile in their shoes? That being said, my approach to critiquing wine has gone through a metamorphosis of sorts... a slightly more positive twist when it comes to analyzing a wine. It is important, (this is my opinion of course) to ask ourselves a couple of questions before we take that first sniff or taste of the wine. What is the winemaker trying to express in this bottle? What signature is he or she hoping to leave on our palate? If we do not believe that these questions are important, then I believe we have lost the essence of what wine is all about. Now this does not mean that I should not give a fair description of the wine. It is my responsibility to help the consumer make a choice as to whether or not they want to purchase the wine under discussion. What does the bouquet show? Is the wine thin or fat? What are the flavors on the palate? Does the wine have a long or short finish? Is the wine rustic or does it have a lot of finesse? Is the wine smooth and seamless or is it slightly disjointed and awkward? You may be thinking that this is a contradiction. If Stan points out that the wine is disjointed and awkward isn’t that being too critical? It is all in how you state it. You can say, “Your beauty makes time stand still.” Or “ Your face stops a clock.” We may have meant the same thing, but who could tell? Let’s give an example of a positive twist on a wine that is slightly disjointed and awkward. “ This red blend has an intense bouquet of blackberries, anise and chocolate. The wine jumps around the palate like a bucking bronco with loads of personality. One minute you get black pepper, the next black raspberry then this then that. Is your palate confused? No, just given a challenge. This finish is interesting with intriguing notes of toasted oak, black pepper and dark cherries blended in chocolate with dashes of celery salt. This wine is not for the timid consumer. If you want an adventure in wine tasting and you are willing to test your olfactory skills, this is the wine for you. “ Some of us may be turned off by this description, whereas many of us might say, “Hey, I would love to give this a try.” Do you see how the description does not leave you thinking that this wine is not worth trying? What it hopefully does is peak your interest. That it gives you enough information to make an informed decision on your purchase. Yes, the wine was disjointed and awkward... but that is not always a bad thing. Heck, there are people out there that like liver and onions. Gaaack! The thing that can kill a wine in many peoples eye is the score. That good ole’ one hundred point scale. It is a good thing for the critic as they give a bottom line to how they really feel about a wine. But is it necessary to give a terrible score to a wine that the critic does not like. Is the critic taking into consideration the heart and soul, the effort that the wine maker put into that wine before they give it a grade? That being said, I believe it is unlikely that a wine deserves a score below an 84, with the exception of a massed produced wine with no heart and soul. Watch out two buck chuck! An “84" point wine is worth trying if you like the description. Right? I would try it. Whereas a wine with a score of 80 or below might be right up there with liver and onions in my book. To digress for just a moment I would like to say that even mass produced wines can hit the target and score well with critics. As far as two buck (or three buck) chuck goes, many folks like the wine and that is all that counts no matter how a critic may rate it. Taking all of this into consideration, the bottom line is... As a wine critic and writer I vow to from this point on take into consideration the effort; the heart and soul put into a bottle of wine and do my best to interpret what the winemaker is trying to express in their bottle. Wine critics have their place, and we are there to help buyers make informed choices. However, we should never forget the human element behind the wine. Stan
Sunday, June 28

DAN BERGER... WINE CRITIC, CARTOONIST OR BLUE CHEESE?
by
Brazenly Lucid
on Sun 28 Jun 2009 10:08 PM PDT
Recently Dan Berger, a syndicated wine critic recently wrote an article entitled: “ Wine writing, blogs and warts”, in which he makes some outrageous statements about the host of wine blogs on the Internet. I do not mean to be inimical towards this individual since I do realize that he does have a couple of accolades to his name: “Wine Writer Of The Year” by Wines and Vines Magazine and Wine Literary award by the Wine Appreciation Guild. He has written two books; Beyond The Grapes: An Inside Look At Napa Valley, and Beyond The Grapes: An Inside Look At Sonoma County. He wrote the California wine section of books, “Wine Reports ‘04,05,and ‘06". Mr. Berger teaches professional level wine courses at Santa Rosa Junior College, was a full-time wine columnist/reporter for the Los Angeles Times from 1988 to ‘96. He left the Times in ‘96 to publish “Vintage Experiences”, a newsletter that he and his wife put out every week. (He also has a blog.... excuse me, web-site of the same name). Suffice to say, Dan Berger has immersed himself in the wine world and writing about the subject for some time. I remember a saying that I heard some time ago that is appropriate to what is about to be discussed.. “Experience is the best teacher, but a fool knows no other.” This was dramatically illustrated by an up and coming wine critic some years ago who started his own news letter, “The Wine Advocate.” In that newsletter, he declared the ‘82 vintage of Bordeaux superb in contrast to many of the critics of his time. His judgment of this vintage turned out to be quite accurate putting his name on the map... we know the rest of the story. In 1982, Robert Parker Jr. was virtually unknown. According to the records, he had no formal training in the field of wine, had never received a degree for journalism or writing. His angle was simple; he declared himself a consumer advocate who was not influenced by commercial interests. By some standards, Parker was inexperienced. Did that matter? I believe this is a rhetorical question. In Mr. Berger’s above mentioned article he takes exception to the numerous bloggers out there who express their opinion and observation about wine. He asserts quite vehemently I might add that most of these sites are written by individuals that as he states treat it as a lark to toss off after a day of arbitraging. Excuse me for screaming plagiarism but it sounds as if Dan has torn a page from the worn out book of bloviating by Robert Parker Jr. who has long looked with askew at wine critics who are also in the business of selling wine or involved some way in the wine business. Parker has also been quite vocal about the many blogs in cyberspace and has referred to them contemptuously as “White Noise”. Let us take a breather here to make this point: Robert Parker Jr. is not the first and will not be the last newbie to come out with his or her opinion and observation about wine and go on and be well respected. Dan Berger nor anyone else for that matter will be the definitive voice of the wine world. I respect Mr. Berger for both his experience in the wine world and his education in journalism. This in itself does not give him the license to decide who is and who is not qualified to write about wine. Let’s face it, there are many critics of Mr. Parker who believe that his style of tasting, and his influence on the wine making world are flawed. Critics of the critics, what is this world coming to? This is a country in which freedom of speech is coveted and respected. Blogging is an avenue in which individuals can exercise their freedom of speech. It is no different then a “Newsletter” or any other form of writing. Yes, there are blogs out there that do not deserve our time just as there are newsletters out there that do not deserve our time. For that matter, how many television programs are out there that do not deserve our time. My step daughter spends a lot of time watching the ever popular reality television programs that have inundated the channels. I personally find these a waste of time, she does not. God Bless America!! Mr. Berger is missing a key element on the subject of wine; it is all about individuality. People are intelligent and can decide if a blog, website, or newsletter is worthy of their time. Does the person writing the blog, website or newsletter have a good track record? Do they have a palate that they can trust? Are they consistent and honest in their evaluations about wine? Do they write in an easy to understand manner? As a wine critic and wine steward I understand the value of these questions. We must respect the fact that everyone can feel differently about the same wine. As critics, sommeliers or stewards we simply state or observation and let the individual go from there. No one person is right or wrong. Dan asserts in his article that the plethora of wine websites or blogs of which he is a contributor have diluted the person-to-person contact and have made wine lovers readers rather then drinkers of the sublime liquid we call wine. How antic is that statement? Anytime you can Google the name of a wine and find a host of tasting notes, suggestions or research, this is beneficial. Let’s say I want to purchase a bottle of wine that might cost me a hundred dollars. I have no problem spending time researching input, tasting notes or commentary on the particular beverage before I make the investment. Where is the easiest place to do this sort of investigation? Need I say more? This is also true when I read a site that gets exuberant about a good value they have run across in the wine world. I do not care if they have researched the producer, wine maker, terrior, wine making methods, whether or not it was distributed by a negociant etcetera, etcetera. All I care about is how good the wine is and why they feel it is a good value. Good juice for six bucks... I am all over it! If they lead me astray one time, I chalk it up to individual taste and take that into consideration the next time they recommend a wine. Mr. Berger spent a lot of time perusing his thesaurus and blowing a lot of tired, hot air to prove only one point; He is a paleolithic wine critic who has trouble sharing the limelight with individuals he deems unworthy of the readers attention. My only suggestion to Dan is move aside and share the space or change your career to cartoonist (sorry, you would have to change your name, it has already been taken in this field) or inventor of the famous blue cheese “berger” and leave freedom of speech to others! Stan
Wednesday, June 17

THE 60% RULE...
by
Brazenly Lucid
on Wed 17 Jun 2009 09:33 AM PDT
Have you ever wondered how a wine steward goes about picking out wines for display? I certainly have! Whenever I get a chance I go through a store’s wine department to check out what it is that they are featuring. There are literally millions of wines out there and I will be the first to admit that I cannot keep up with all of them. So the question is; What criteria do the stewards use to determine what it is that should take up space in the display area? I believe that there are several approaches to this question. First and foremost is sales. Every store wants something out there that will turn and burn. Sometimes this comes with compromise. For example... Two Buck Chuck or Three Buck Chuck if you live in Washington. To be honest, the driving force behind the sale of this wine is the price, plain and simple. Let’s face it. For thirty- six bucks plus tax you are walking out the store with a case of wine. There is not a cheaper way to entertain your wine drinking friends then that. The compromise in this is that the wine is fair to poor in quality. I know, because I have purchased it just to see what all the hype was about. Out of the seven wines I tried, the only one that I felt was worth drinking was the Chardonnay. Now is Trader Joes worried about what Stan thinks of their wine? Absolutely not. They sale a ton of this juice to all those folks out there looking for a bargain... more power to them. In this case, it is not quality but quantity that is the determining factor for the huge displays. Friday Harbor has now been blessed with a store that is following this philosophy and folks, it is not my shop. A turn and burn wine does not always mean that you have to settle for an inferior product. There are many good wines out there that go for a fraction of what you might expect. You might have to pay just a couple of dollars more then the “Chuck” wine but for those looking for quality rather then quantity, the search is worth it. I would look like to add that I do not hold it against anyone if they do the Trader Joe’s thing. If I were having a party and wanted to provide a crap-load of wine, I would be walking out the door with cases. There is another factor that determines what will go on display and this can be a risky approach. I call this the score factor. Another words, some stewards will put a wine out on the floor simply because it received a high score in a wine magazine such as the Wine Spectator or the Wine Advocate. I say this is risky because there are times the critics in these periodicals can be off base when it comes to finding wines that appeal to a wide range of folks. Take as an example The Wine Advocate. When Robert Parker Jr. and his fellow writers critique wine they are tasting from the perspective of what they consider to be good or bad wine. They obviously have trained palates for what they like and like all of us can use correct verbiage to describe the attributes of the wine so that the reader can make an informed decision. Here in lies the problem; their approach is not directed to a broad audience. There have been a number of times I have fallen into the trap of buying a wine because it scored well and have sat on it for quite awhile because it did not live up to the hype or was a parochial choice. Here is where the 60% rule comes into play. As a wine steward it is my responsibility to understand what kind of wine will appeal to at least 60% of my customers. This takes experience and a keen desire to understand the needs of those who walk into the wine department. Without this desire we could easily fall into the aforementioned habits of buying. It is a continual learning process since the mood of the customer changes from time to time and there is a need for adjustment. Today the trend is towards quality red blends under fifteen bucks. If you can find one for around ten, even better. Gruner Veltliner is also seeing a surge in popularity; especially the 1 liter bottle for around twelve bucks! All of these fall into the 60% rule and find great success as display items. Bottom line: figure out the philosophy of the wine buyer in your local wine shop. Pick her or his brain and see how they think. By doing so you will be at an advantage when you look at their recommendations. Cheap wines and good scores have their place, but always keep in mind that life is too short to for bad wine. Just trying to keep it real. Stan
Wednesday, April 15

THE SYRAH EXPERIENCE...
by
Brazenly Lucid
on Wed 15 Apr 2009 09:54 PM PDT
Plain and simple; I love syrah! In particular Washington Syrah. I love the bacon fat, boysenberry and smokey tones that dominate the ones that are well made. I also have a strong affection for Rhone varietals that are dominated by the Syrah grape. Unlike the Washington version, the French version tends to be a little gamey and spicy due to the fact that they add Grenache to the mix .... nothing wrong with that!! Recently, I had a Syrah experience that I would like to share with my friends that illustrates the fact that price and score should not necessarily determine a buying decision. In fact I hope I can save you a lot of money with the insight from this recent experience. Not too long ago I opened three different bottles of Syrah, two from Washington and one from California. They ranged in price from ten bucks to seventy bucks. How did this turn out? I will give you my insight and opinion, take it or leave it... it is what it is! Let’s start with the mid-priced Syrah from Washington State.
2006 Powers Reserve Syrah Cougar Vineyard, Wahluke Slope. $19.99
I was very impressed with this effort. When I visited this winery a couple of years ago I realized just how passionate the Powers family was about their wine. Very underrated in my opinion, they produce some excellent wines. This syrah is a classic example. Smokey blackberry and plum on the nose let’s you know you are in for a treat. It fills the mouth with intense dark fruit flavors with a touch of black pepper that carries through and strengthens in the mid-palate. This evolves into dark candied cherry flavors on the finish wrapped in licorice blackberries and pepper that lingers on and on. This is what you expect from Washington syrah and this wine takes it to the next level. If you love syrah, this wine should be sitting in your wine rack. 90 points
The next syrah epitomizes the belief that price should never drive your wine buying decisions. I live by this belief and therefore save myself a load of money.
2003 Canyons Edge Winery Estate Syrah... $9.99
The nose was quite interesting with red meat, cranberries, red cherries and a hint of mint. Flavors of boysenberries, black licorice, black pepper that are balanced and a lot richer then you might expect. The finish was fairly long with anise, dark fruit and pepper tones. The quality of this wine was quite impressive especially considering the price, a mere ten bucks. I give this wine 89 points without even thinking about it. If you can get your hands on this do not pass up the chance. 89 + points
Before I go on about this next syrah, I would like to take a moment to share an experience that was related to me by a good customer of mine who had learned the hard way. This friend who I will leave anonymous bought a case of fine Bordeaux which Robert Parker Jr. of the Wine Advocate had rated 95 points. In Parkers notes he mentioned that this wine should not be drunk for at least eight years and that it would get better over the next twenty + years. My studious friend tucked this case of wine away looking forward to opening the first bottle in eight years. That day arrived, and much to his dismay, the first bottle was absolutely horrid... vinegar to be exact. Being a man of confidence he figured this must be a fluke and that the next bottle would be fine. After opening the last of all twelve bottles he was horrified. All the bottles had turned to vinegar. So much for the advice from the Wine Advocate. This is not to say that Parker does not know what he is talking about. Quite to the contrary. What this does illustrate is that one has to be careful that they do not take advice at face value. Try the wine first, and see what you think. If you are going to age a wine, make sure that you open a bottle within four years to see how it is doing. After four years of aging you will have a better bead on what is going on with the wine. You have to remember that wine critics taste the wine from barrel. From years of experience and training they make an educated evaluation of how the wines will do over time. I believe that if you were to ask their advice they would tell you the same thing. Check the wine after four or five years. Wine is not an exact science... it is a living bottle and has a mind of it’s own. Treat it that way and it will bring you great pleasure. This brings us to the last bottle of Syrah...
2005 Shafer Relentless Syrah. “93" points Parker, “92" points The Wine Spectator, and “92" points Stephen Tanzer.
My mouth was watering as I was uncorking this baby anticipating a fantastic bottle of wine. Stephen Tanzer is very conservative so I knew I was in for a treat if he gave it a 92! If you like a wine that tastes like roasted vanilla bean dipped in liquid oak, then this is the wine for you. As for me I was completely disappointed. I could barely finish the one glass that I had poured... the rest of the bottle went down the sink. I realize that this wine may have some aging potential and I will put a bottle away for a few years to see. But I am here to tell you not to waste your money. This is not an effort worth spending seventy bucks on. Your money could be spent better elsewhere. I have tasted past vintages and have liked this wine, but for the price you could by three bottles of the outstanding Ex Umbris by Owen Roe and go to bed a very happy person. 85 points. So there it is... Always make your purchases carefully. Find a wine steward you can trust and ask for their advice. Remember, a wine steward is interested in what you like not in scoring a wine. Here’s to keeping it real.... Stan
Wednesday, January 14

WINE CRITIC OR WINE STEWARD... WHICH WILL IT BE?
by
Brazenly Lucid
on Wed 14 Jan 2009 09:57 PM PST
It can take years to build trust. This is especially true in the wine business. I have spent the last twenty years of my life learning about wine, but especially learning how to understand what it is that individuals are looking for when it comes to buying a bottle. The range goes from the discriminating palate to the person who says “just give me a cheap red, they all taste the same”. Now when I say discriminating I am using the definition of one who is analytical and can note distinctions or differences with nicety, not the definition of one who has excellent taste or judgement. I say this because other then the later example we all have excellent taste if we know what we like. That being said, with all the different approaches to purchasing wine it takes some skill and powers of observation to be able to recommend the right wine to the right person. I will give you a couple of examples to help you see my point. I have a good friend who comes into my wine department on a regular basis. His analysis of wine starts with the alcohol content. “If it is over 14% alcohol, I probably won’t like it”, are the words most often heard from this gentleman’s mouth. My friend came to this conclusion based on his experience with wine and his palate. He has tried many different wines and knows that from is own trial and error he does not enjoy wines that he considers “Hot” with alcohol or the over-the-top fruit driven versions. He is convinced that this is wrong and preaches it from the rooftops. He stands by his opinion and I love him for it. Is he right? As far as his own palate goes, he has found the light........ From another persons perspective he may seem whacked! My job is to find the wine that I know he will try and most likely enjoy. This can be difficult at times because I have found wines that I believe he will like but they are over the line when it comes to alcohol. He has given me the nod on many of the wines I have recommended. I have built a trust with him that I continue to cherish. I have also found wines that, based on what he has told me I know he will like hands down. I have been 100 percent accurate in this department. He is difficult but understandable. On the other hand, I have a good friend who often comes to me for advice on wine. Unlike the other friend, this guy likes the opposite style of wine. He could care less about alcohol content. His concern is that the wine does not taste too earthy. He does not like the sweaty horse saddle, mushroom, forest floor old world style wines. Again, he has come to this conclusion by trying many different wines and holding true to his palate. My job is to understand his palate and lead him to the right bottle. I have tried to get him to stretch out a bit to no avail. He tells me that I have only led him astray three times out of over one hundred. When he tells me that, I feel a tremendous amount of pride and a lot of humility, knowing that each time he asks me for a recommendation I need to give it careful consideration, knowing that he is looking to me to make a smart purchase. My friend is willing to try different wines as long as it is not to far outside his preferences. Again, I love this guy for what he is. Both of my friends have different palates, and they are both right about what they like. What is my point? The point of this discussion is the difference between a wine critic and a Wine Steward or a Sommelier. A wine critic judges a wine based on his or her’s criteria. They have perhaps years of experience in tasting wine. They may be what you might call a professional taster. The question is what do they base their judgement of the wine on? Their own perceived view of what is a good or a bad wine. On the other hand, a Wine Steward or a Sommelier has to take into consideration what the person likes to whom they are recommending a wine. I call this the “ eight questions”. There are at least eight questions you have to ask someone in order to find out what they are looking for.
#1. What is your price range? This is very important because it saves you a lot of time. There are many good wines in every price range, you just need to know what they want to spend.
#2. What flavor do you want, red or white.
#3. What varietal are you looking for? Merlot, Cab, Chard, Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc.
#4. After the first three questions you need to ask what they like about wine. Do they look fruity wines or do they like earthy wines. New World vs. Old World. If their preference is Chardonnay, do they like a lot of oak, or do they like it steel fermented. If their preference is Riesling, do they like it sweeter or drier. You must be careful never to make them feel like either answer is wrong. Whatever they like is great! (Question # 4 has two extra questions, bring the total to six).
#7. What do you normally drink? And do you want to try something different in the same varietal? If the answer is no then you have narrowed it down significantly. If the answer is yes, then you have someone who wants to experiment. (This Question actually has two questions bringing the total to eight).
You can see the dramatic difference between a critic and a wine steward. A wine steward has to set their personal preferences aside, ask a lot of questions and try and pick the perfect wine for the person. I know this is an oversimplification since a professional taster has to use a lot of accumulated knowledge and experience to be able to make a judgement about a wine. How long will it age? How does it stand up to past vintages? How does it compare to competing wine producers. I know that some people are impressed that a wine critic can spit out facts about wine, like the fantastic 2000 & 2005 Bordeaux vintages or the incredible 1998 Oregon pinot noir. This is all well and good, but the bottom line is will we like the wines. Robert Parker made a comment in his recent Wine Buyers Guide about all the free blogs out there on the subject of wine that create a lot of useless white noise. I detect a touch of arrogance in that statement. I am sure that at some point in his career, other wine critics felt that this new guy on the block was just some white noise. Now that Parker has made his mark in the wine world I guess no one else is allowed to express their opinion on the subject of wine. After all, Parker must be the definitive voice on wine for everyone...... Right? Absolutely not. Don’t get me wrong, I have a lot of respect for Robert Parker Jr. . I read his periodical on a regular basis. As far as a wine expert; he is only as good as his own personal palate. I have had wines that have scored ninety plus points by Parker that I would have scored in the low eighties. Many of the wines that score well in the Wine Enthusiast do not do very well on the retail level. Many have criticized Robert Parker Jr. for using his fame to influence wine makers to make their product to fit his personal taste in wine. True or not, Mr. Parker has done well for himself in the wine business. The bottom line is this. When you go to a wine steward or sommelier that you can trust, they are interested in what you like in a wine. They put their personal preferences aside and search for the wine for you. When you read Parker or the Wine Spectator or Stephen Tanzer, it is now your responsibility to understand what they like and whether you agree with them or not. In this context the job of a wine steward is a lot more difficult. We spend our time searching for those wines that we know will be good for a majority of the customers that look to us for guidance. We put descriptors on the wines that enable our customers to understand what they are purchasing. We take pride in finding the right wine for a customer with a peculiar palate. We never belittle someone for a preference that is starkly different then ours. Wine critics have their value. They give us something to read, something to learn about and a different viewpoint. They give us some insight on vintages and producers. They introduce us to wines we may never have heard of. They take us to many places we may never get to visit personally. As for purchasing wine, you are far better off looking to that “white noise.” The wine stewards with blogs who give their own critique on wine based on their vast experience on the front lines . . . helping the folks that come into their stores. Or, simply go into their stores and asking for their help.
Tuesday, December 23

NO MERLOT!
by
Brazenly Lucid
on Tue 23 Dec 2008 08:36 AM PST
I am absolutely irked about something I discovered in the recent issue of the Wine Spectator. As is the custom for this magazine, at the end of each year they give their interpretation of the “Top 100" wines for the year. I am a fan of the Spectator, and have the greatest respect for their work. I love to go over the list carefully and then go over the tasting notes at the very back of the issue. This is a big part of my palate training. Before I go into a little tirade I do want to mention that the choice of Seghesio as number ten on the list with a score of 93 is absolutely right on. If you can get your hands on any of this before it is gone, do so as soon as possible. It is a stunning wine and is only about $23.00. It is great now and should lay down for a couple of years. I am a big Zin fan and this is one of my favorites. The one thing that bugged me the most is the absence of Merlot from the list. I do realize that a couple of the Bordeaux’s mentioned were from the Right Bank so of course were predominantly Merlot. However, I find it hard to believe that not one Merlot from California, Washington or anywhere else was not worthy of making the list. If you are not aware of this, the popular movie Sideways from a number of years ago slammed Merlot and gave high praises to Pinot Noir. Since that movie, Pinot Noir sales have soared, and Merlot sales have suffered a dramatic decline. The power that Hollywood has on peoples minds never ceases to amaze me. But let’s face the facts. IT IS JUST A MOVIE.......!!!!!! Maybe we also believe that someday we will run into God mopping floors in a building and He is going to give us his powers so we can see what it is like to be Him. Remember Bruce Almighty. There were good Pinot Noir and Merlot wines long before the movie Sideways hit the screen. If you are at all familiar with the wines made by Petrus you will know that these wines from the right bank of Bordeaux are in most cases 100% Merlot. A bottle of Petrus can easily sale for $700.00. Aside from this example, there are many fabulous bottles of Merlot from both California and Washington. Many of the great blends that are so popular are predominantly Merlot based. This being said, it is safe to say that the statement about Merlot in the movie Sideways was absolutely ignorant. The movie was basically about a neurotic wine snob. A regular wine snob is bad enough let alone a neurotic one. The script was written in such a way to make his view of wine humorous not factual. That being said, I am beginning to think that the writers of the Spectator have themselves succumbed to the influence of Hollywood. They will not admit this but the evidence is overwhelming. I say this because not only was merlot omitted from the Top 100, it was also absent from their list of “ Great Values of 2008". In this list one can find the Columbia Crest Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills H3 2005. I will admit that this wine is a great value. For the same price you can get their H3 Merlot which is equally as good as the cab, if not a touch better. Why was it left off the list? I have the greatest admiration for the staff of the Wine Spectator. They have a big job and they do it well. I do not always agree with their scores, but that is what the wine world is all about; individuality. I just find it extremely hard to believe that they did not run across one Merlot that passed all the criteria for either being in the “Top 100" or a “Great Value”. The wine world is definitely influenced by trends. It is our job as wine critics to avoid those trends and continue to promote wines that fit into the category of either great values...... (Price to Quality) or simply great wines that are not priced out of this universe and are available to most of the public. This year the “Top 100" wines of 2008 in the Wine Spectator was just a little to trendy for me. I will give you a couple of examples to show what I mean. Three Gruner Veltliner wines in the top 100...... A very trendy wine right now. I love Gruner myself, but three on the list and not one merlot. Get real.
Three Malbec wines on the list. We all know how trendy Malbec is right now, everybody loves Malbec including myself. Great wine, but three of those and not one Merlot?
Riesling has seen a recent upswing in popularity and attention from the press. As a result are we surprised that five, count it, 5 Riesling made it in the top 100 list. I’m sorry, but five Riesling and not one Merlot. Do you see my point? So my suggestion to you is to take the list for what it is worth, stay true to your own palate and do not let trends or Hollywood influence your taste. That is my opinion, take it for what it is worth. Just trying to keep wine real. Stan
Sunday, December 7

TRAIN YOUR PALATE KNOWLEDGE
by
Brazenly Lucid
on Sun 07 Dec 2008 09:34 AM PST
One only has to surf the web for a few minutes to be exposed to the plethora of wine consultants, critics and hobbyist out there, myself included. Some of us have no doubt found a favorite site that we trust and go to in order to see what is out there in the wine world, what is going on and to get help in understanding aspects of this exciting field. Like myself, many go to a site to get information on a specific wine and hope to make a decision on whether to purchase it or not. Let’s face it; if the bottle you are seeking is six dollars or fifty dollars you want to know if your money is going to be well spent! Another reason I read wine critics and surf the web is to expand my palate knowledge. What do I mean?
I write an absolute ton of wine descriptions for the store I work at and for my web-site. When tasting a wine, your palate becomes acutely aware of certain flavors and feelings about the wine. How do you identify and describe what you are tasting? I call this palate knowledge. The verbiage from one analyst to another can be strikingly different. There are however some common threads such as currant, boysenberry, cherry, wood, anise, etc. The trick is who do you trust. Who will lead you down the right path a majority of the time? Who has a consistent palate? This is a tricky area because when you find the right person, it can save you a lot of time and money. Personally my hope is that wine lovers out there trust my observations and insights, know what I like and can make a decision based on this knowledge. Ultimately it is your palate that matters and if you do not like what I like then do not buy it. If I do not like it, then maybe you should give it a shot.
That being said there are a few sources out there that I go to consistently to get help in training my palate and making purchasing decisions. First of all, a shout out to a good friend of mine Ted Seifert. His palate is excellent and trustworthy. He takes the time to understand what his customers like, myself included. He rarely leads me astray. The Wine Spectator is a fantastic source of information with excellent tasting notes. The Wine Advocate is also a top-notch reference for wine knowledge and palate training. Number One on my list however and I am excited about this knew source that I have recently discovered is Gary Vaynerchuk of www.winelibrarytv.com . Gary Vaynerchuk has trained his palate very well and has learned how to convey his thoughts on a wine in an understandable and concise manner. He has a ton of energy, is very enthusiastic about wine and can be extremely funny. One thing, and this is what I like about the guy; he is not a wine snob. He approaches the subject the same way I do. It does not matter what he thinks about the wine, it matters what you think about it. His descriptions give you a good basis for making a decision. He makes it very clear what he likes and dislikes about a wine and he tries to understand what the majority of his audience likes based on feedback that he gets. Gary will have guests on his program including wine makers and other individuals deeply involved in the wine world. Different episodes include blind tasting, food and wine pairing and during the football season, a lot of commentary about the New York Jets.
Check out this website and you might make it #2 on your list under Brazenly Lucid Wines. ( Go Colts!)
Another fine way to train your palate knowledge is to be a part of the tasting events held at the Grange Hall. If you want to take part in these tasting events let me know by sending your e-mail address to stan@blucid.com or by calling Kings Market (360) 378-4505 ext. 1 and ask for Stan.This is to all those out there who are working to keep the wine world real! Stan
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