THE RISE OF SAUVIGNON BLANC

This may be somewhat premature but hell, that has never stopped me before. I see something on the wine horizon that is very encouraging; sauvignon blanc sales are experiencing a steady increase over the past year. This is hardly scientific since I am basing my conclusions on what I see in the store that I work in. However, this has always been a reliable barometer for me and I do not see why it should let me down now. This past Fall, Winter and Spring, sauvignon blanc sales were out of this world in a time when they tend to come to a standstill. At first I thought it was an anomaly until I heard a respected wine critic I was watching make a passing comment on the rise in sales of the aforementioned varietal.

For me, this is a breath of fresh air. I have long been discouraged over the tenacious hold pinot grigio has had in the white wine category. It started with the rise in popularity of Italian pinot grigio and eventually bled over into the domestic side. For the past four years I have had difficulty keeping up with the demand. At first, it was a good thing. Chardonnay had lost some of it’s thunder and folks were looking elsewhere to quench their thirst for white wine. I would never discourage anyone from expanding their palate horizons. The problem however lies in the fact that most pinot grigio is one-dimensional and quite boring in many ways. People started feeling comfortable with this wine knowing that they would not have to think about what they are drinking. Just take it home and glug, glug, glug. Pinot grigio is in my estimation the McDonalds of white wine; you always know what you are going to get. Far be it from me to criticize, since on many occasions I have succumbed to the craving for several McDonald’s cheeseburgers in one sitting. I too enjoy a bottle of pinot grigio from time to time. However, to stick to pinot grigio because it is safe and you do not have to think about is a tragedy! Wine is all about experimentation, adventure and diversity. If you lose that, then you have lost a part of the wine world that is so much fun and so interesting. The amount of varietals that are available on the market these days is almost incomprehensible. Here are just a few of the white wines that you should be able to find in your local wine shop.

Torrontes from Argentina, semillon, riesling, chardonnay, pinot gris (same as pinot grigio, but an entirely different style), pinot blanc, aligote, Muscadet, marsanne, roussannse, viognier, gruner veltliner, chenin blanc (Vouvray in France), albarino, gewruztraminer, verdelho, verdicchio and of course sauvignon blanc. There are of course many others, but they are not as accessible. You may be asking yourself at this time..." Why is Stan excited about sauvignon blanc? Isn’t it just as one dimensional as pinot grigio?" I think this is a fair question and one that should be addressed. The answer is no and yes. I say yes simply because there are so many poorly made domestic sauvignon blancs on the market. Case in point; I was told by a salesperson that Woodward Canyon sauvignon blanc was absolutely delicious. I took him on his word and took into account the reputation of the winery. The wine went for thirty dollars retail so I was really looking forward to giving it a try. Much to my dismay, the wine was bland and uninteresting... very one dimensional. In the same sitting, I had tried a sauvignon blanc from the Languedoc region of France, an area not know for it’s sauvignon blanc. I was quite impressed with this effort, and went back to it after the Woodward Canyon disaster. What is my point? If you want to find out just how complex and amazing sauvignon blanc can be, you in most cases need to look outside the United States. Before I go on any further, it has to be said that there are some outstanding examples of this variety in this country. I recently tasted a stellar, vibrant example of what can be done with this wine from a small winery located near Bellingham, WA. However, the majority of outstanding examples still come from France, New Zealand and now Chile.

New Zealand sauvignon blanc can send you to the moon and back when done at it’s best. I personally do not prefer the grapefruit juice versions of these wines. I swear that if you put a little milk in a glass of some of the sauvignon blanc out of this country you would have a hard time telling the difference between the wine and a glass of grapefruit juice except for the buzz in your head after a glass or two. I can certainly understand the appeal and will be happy to lead you to a bottle of Kim Crawford. I personally enjoy the versions from this country that offer up a load of zingy acridity along with grass, lemon, lime, minerality and only slight hints of grapefruit. Hard to beat a glass of this on a warm summer day out on the back porch or deck. Then there is the sauvignon blanc from Sancerre, France. If we could only get the price down then I would be in heaven. Shining examples of what can be done with this grape. Racy acidity that makes my mouth water just thinking about it. Excellent minerality along with notes of fresh cut grass, wet stone, and in most cases hints of lemon. I believe that some of the best wine for oysters is Sancerre. France also shows off sauvignon blanc out of Bordeaux. Often blended with semillon it is some of the most interesting whites that you will find on the market. A little rounder with excellent minerality along with herbal notes. I am excited to see a rise in interest for white Bordeaux. Chile is also making a mark in the sauvignon blanc world and at excellent prices. If you are looking for delicious values in sauvignon blanc look no further then our friends from South America.

Yes, sauvignon blanc like any other varietal can be boring and humdrum when made poorly. However, done well it can be exciting to the palate and quite versatile. So watch out pinot grigio, the white that might knock you out of your comfortable position in the white wine category could very well be sauvignon blanc! Here’s to keeping it real. Stan The Wine Man.